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The Hunger Games: Catching Fire costume designer Trish Summerville returns for The Ballad of Songbirds and Snakes and details how she created some of the most iconic looks from the book to the screen.
Trish and Francis wanted to make sure the version of Panem we see in The Ballad of Songbirds and Snakes feels different enough from the Panem we saw in the first movies. She added, "Aesthetically it looks completely different from the world we saw in the other films."
For Tigris, Trish worked closely with the makeup department head, Sherri Berman Laurence, and the hair department head, Nikki Gooley, to design Tigris's trademark look. "I'm a big fan of 1940s' silhouettes, so I leaned into that," Trish said. "We had a very contained color palette with the film, and I wanted Tigris’s colors and shapes to be really exaggerated since she is the most fashionable person in the film."
Francis explained that they wanted to create a balance between the Tigris we know in the later The Hunger Games movies and books vs. her present self. He elaborated, "One thing we have to do with Hunter is to keep the sweet youthfulness about her, while still doing something a little different and avant-garde. It's not over the top. We didn't want to lean into what Tigris becomes, but just provide a nod to it."
For Dr. Gaul’s signature red and white lab outfit, the costume team wanted to enhance the character's already intimidating presence.
"With Gaul’s lab coat, we used a duchess silk and washed it so it could get this kind of veining through it," Trish explained. "Then ombre dyed it in red. I like using red in that stark cold environment – it empowers the presence of Dr. Gaul."
For Lucky Flickerman, the filmmakers enjoyed charting his rising stardom through his various clothing and hairstyles throughout the movie. "As Lucky’s work covering the Games on television progresses, so does his ego and excitement, so I wanted his hair to start getting a little higher and his mustache to become fancier," explained Trish.
In terms of his various tuxes and other outfits in The Ballad of Songbirds and Snakes, Trish elaborated, saying, "With his wardrobe, it's a slow progression of him dressing fancier and fancier, and by the finale, Lucky’s in a tuxedo with tails."