Recently, there's been a lot of buzz about Gen Alpha's newfound obsession with Sephora and pricey skincare lines like Drunk Elephant. Gen Alpha is the youngest generation after Gen Z, and they're currently age 13 and younger.
All over TikTok, Instagram, Reddit, and the hellsite formerly known as Twitter, people are talking about kids behaving badly in Sephora stores — making messes of the tester products and being rude to other shoppers — as they rush to swoop up anti-aging products and high-end cosmetics. Even reality TV legend Bethenny Frankel has joined in on roasting young girls shopping in Sephora, saying, "Bitch, you're 14," in an Instagram video.
She captioned the video, "Kids at Sephora should be no mora."
It definitely feels strange to see kids indulging in pricey skincare at an age when I (and many of my 30-something peers) made do with Noxzema, Dr. Pepper-flavored Lip Smackers (RIP), and that apricot scrub that tore up my sensitive skin. It's like they're growing up faster and possibly missing out on the more carefree pleasures of tweenhood.
At the same time, there's a meanness in some of the conversations around young girls and tweens at Sephora that I find worrying. I definitely empathize with store employees who vent frustrations about kids making a mess, but when it comes to viral posts like this woman's call to "normalize being mean" to little girls at Sephora, I feel like a lot of us are forgetting what it feels like to be that age.
If I could turn back time and be 11 years old again, I absolutely would not do it. My tween years were marked by big insecurities, especially around the way I looked, and I really struggled with feeling like I could never, ever fit in.
Through adult eyes, those struggles can seem small and trivial now, but in my adolescent brain, they were enormous and all-consuming. Plus, my awkward and emotional adolescence was far from unique. You probably remember similar feelings and worries from when you were that age.
According to therapists Lindsay Fleming, LPC, and Stacy McCarthy, LCPC, the current tween obsession with adult beauty products has more to do with a desire to fit in than anything else. They told BuzzFeed, "Girls who have never discussed skincare before are now fixated on having 10-step routines. It becomes more about having the product all their friends want/have than the actual impact that product has on their face."
Fleming and McCarthy host the podcast Take Two, which features cross-generational discussions about mental health along with practical advice.
However, that doesn't mean these products meant for adults are appropriate for such young skin. Triple board-certified dermatologist Dr. Mamina Turegano told BuzzFeed, "A cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen are skincare products that are safe for kids. If a child has acne and oily skin, they can incorporate a salicylic acid-based cleanser or topical serum."
And Dr. Mamina advises kids to avoid using products with certain ingredients that can be much too harsh for their growing skin. "Other than salicylic acid, I would avoid other exfoliating acids, including glycolic acid and lactic acid. I also recommend avoiding retinols, vitamin C, and scrubs. If the child has oily or acne-prone skin, then retinol may be okay to use." If you're not sure about a product, run it by your pediatrician or dermatologist to get their take on if it's safe for your child.
Dr. Mamina also provided a bit more context around retinols for anyone curious about this popular anti-aging skincare ingredient. "Retinols can potentially be very irritating in those with young, normal skin. Retinols increase skin cell turnover, which is useful as we get older because our cell turnover rate decreases as we age. At a young age, the cell turnover rate is normal so using a retinol to induce higher cell turnover rate could lead to unnecessary irritation. Retinoids are used in acne [treatment] to increase the turnover of built-up skin cells clogging pores."
Dr. Mamina mentioned that she's been hearing more and more from clients with kids who want to use these grown-up products and shared how she handles these conversations. "If they’re dead set on buying skincare, I tell them which ingredients to avoid. And just because a skincare line has 40 different products, it’s not necessary for them to use all of them. I say to keep things simple with a cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen."
Fleming and McCarthy said they've also been hearing about this trend from their counseling clients. "In our offices, we are seeing an increase in tweens that have been focusing on how their skin/face looks and less on interests that could be more developmentally appropriate."
They also note that the high price tag on many of the moment's most coveted items can make it harder for kids to feel like they're fitting in. Even at 38, I can't stomach the idea of spending more than, like, $25 on a face cream.
And they shared some pointers for parents of tweens who are begging for retinol creams and glow-enhancing serums. "We would recommend limiting the amount of skincare they can purchase, reviewing with them the negatives to using skincare this early, and helping pick options that are the safest at their age. We would also recommend encouraging other interests that they have that do not focus on skincare and appearance."
They also emphasize the importance of talking with your tween to understand why they want the products they want. Untangling their motivations can also help kids better understand why it feels so important to join in on the current trends.