This post has not been vetted or endorsed by BuzzFeed's editorial staff. BuzzFeed Community is a place where anyone can create a post or quiz. Try making your own!
I Am Surfer
Ever wondered what it feels like holding your breath while spinning helplessly on the brink of death? What it's like inside a wipeout or the euphoric stoke of taming the beast? This is my tale of survival. My pursuit of happiness. A journey of doing what it takes to let go of fear and act in the moment. The risks are real, with real pain and true reward. I've put the fabric of my entire soul into this project. From the paddle out, through the beating, to the wipeouts and the monster pay off, only to capture the very essence of a surfer's spirit. I hope you have as much fun watching it as I had making it! Thank you and enjoy!!
