There's really no place like it. No place has both the history whilst being so current. It's ubiquitous.
French in style, it sits as if perched on some distant European mountain, clinging to the foot of the Hollywood Hills to which it hasn't let go since construction began in 1927. The crux of its charm is, and always has been, its history – which is absolutely unrivaled.
Chateau's beginning began before there was a West Hollywood, before LA had even engulfed the entire area. And with that, it has a certain place in the stars above all the other hotels on the Strip – and might only be rivaled in classic elegance (but way more fun) by The Sunset Tower of the same generation. This shining Hollywood star may never have become a hotel if it weren't for the Great Depression; completed in 1929 as apartments, the building sat almost empty with high rents and no one who could afford to lease them. Two years later the property became a hotel and thanks to its short life as an apartment building, many of the 63 rooms are suites with kitchens and living spaces.
After the end of the Depression, LA entered its sun-drenched golden era. And Chateau rode this wave with fervor. Its relationship with stars of the two-legged variety during this time with Harry Cohn (Columba Pictures founder) summing it up perfectly with his oft-quoted bit of advice: "If you must get in trouble, do it at the Chateau Marmont." During this gilded time the hotel was frequented by literati like F. Scott Fitzgerald, movie stars Greta Garbo and Clark Gable, and definers of a generation like Marilyn Monroe and James Dean.
Rich with this fame and notoriety, the property expanded in the 1940's and 50's to include what, to many, makes Chateau the star among other hotels. What are now known as the cottages, and were once a small property all their own, were acquired by the hotel to provide even more secluded accommodation. This compounded with the construction of four bungalows designed by Craig Ellwood (of Case Study Houses fame) in 1956 form the glorious and lush pool area.
Its close association with the word 'celebrity' has been cultivated through decades of secrets and not-so-secrets that have taken place in its rooms and on its grounds. As Hollywood's golden age ended and the Sunset Strip changed to become a music and youth hangout, Chateau's crowd welcomed a new cast of characters. With stories of Led Zeppelin driving motorcycles through the lobby, Dennis Hopper's orgies, Jim Morrison dangling from a drainpipe, and any number of fame-studded drug parties and sleepovers – there's not too many of the scene that didn't feel the love of Chateau during the '70's and '80's. Maybe the hotel gave them too much privacy, too much love. Prime example – John Beluschi's speedball OD in Bungalow 4 in 1982. Whilst always famous amongst insiders and people 'in the know,' to many people around the world, this was their first recollection of the Chateau.
In 1990 the hotel was bought by a then-unknown Andre Balazs (who today is behind hotels like The Standard, The Mercer, and Sunset Beach, among other ventures.) His facelift ushered in a new period for the hotel which it is still living in today. The hotel became famous in its own right. No longer was it a secret of movie stars, it was splashed across tabloids fed with pictures from paparazzi that never leave the hotel's entrance. Hotel culture and celebrity mania reached a feverous pitch in the new millennium and everyone wanted (and still does) to stay at Chateau Marmont. And the hotel delivers, as always, all the while loving the attention from famous people and regular folk alike. It instituted its infamous blacklist policy – which today is no secret. Mess up and you won't be coming back. Not even the celebrities that help it remain in the public eye are immune – Britney Spears was banned forever for disrupting dinner!
Today's Chateau isn't too far removed from that of decades passed. You can feel the history; feel the stories that have taken place. And for every famous client there are exponential everyday people like you and me popping in and out. Though I like to think that even the regular folk that slink around its storied halls aren't that regular either. The typical Chateau-phile is still a rare breed of Angeleno. Apart from those who actually STAY at the hotel (visitors well-advised and hence of a certain nature), the people who you will find sitting in the Garden, by the pool, or disappearing around corners are people you wanna know. They love form – in every sense of the word. Whether it concerns fashion, people, surroundings, or atmosphere: these people get it.
So, for your next trip to Los Angeles, head to the Chateau and join us. What follows is how to do it right and ascend the stairway to heaven:
After turning off Sunset onto Marmont Lane, make a quick right before the Chateau sign into the cobblestoned driveway and pull all the way up. Stepping out under the forested canopy provides a respite that lets you know that you've reached one of LA's true oases.
Realizing you've reached said oasis – rest your weary bones from the oh-so-hard life before heading upstairs and take a seat in the sitting area directly in front of valet. Take it all in. Maybe you're waiting for someone anyway? Pull out a cigarette. Reflect. Listen to the rustle of leaves, wind, and general serenity that comes with this view as you look down to all the cars whipping down Sunset. Take a few puffs, flash a couple smiles, and wave to your equally excited friend as they pull up.
Head upstairs via the old-fashioned elevator: dial on top counting the floors, wood-paneled interior, and glamorously slow. You're only going a floor, but who needs stairs? Make a left, and a left, and stare at the glorious room in front of you. No you're not at a chalet – you're at Chateau. But no pictures – you have entered a picture-free zone. Try and break this rule and you will be publically scolded. Head towards the restaurant host's stand straight and to the left. The hosts are guardians of entry who will ask you if you are a hotel guest or have a reservation. Hopefully you do. Otherwise, I hope you look good. And aren't Britney Spears. Don't take the interior room as an option – alas it is beautiful, but this is an auspicious occasion likened to standing at the Gate of Saint Peter. If you've done good, you'll head outdoors – to the Garden.
You might think that you've landed on the Riviera (Italian or French) once you take a seat at your wicker table. There's hardly a sound other than clinking, banter, and other dining sounds. Even the birds are chirping for Christ's sake. A faint, barely audible hum of traffic might once in a while prevail to remind you of where you came. The scene is straight out of a dream. Verdant, peaceful, Chateau rising up next to you like a castle. Your fellow diners all seem to fit in place, like a jigsaw puzzle that was missing the final piece – you. Some people are dressed like movie stars, some are movie stars, some are casual (they're usually 'somebody' too), but never someone out of place.
After a preliminary scope of the scene, eye the bamboo bar in the corner – they're ready to make your drink. Make it a Bloody Mary. If you're sober, make it a Virgin Mary. Their mix has the right amount of horseradish – nothing worse than a Bloody Mary with no horseradish and excess Tabasco. In no time at all your attentive waiter will take that order. Be prepared for him to keep his distance during your time here; but, with only one searching glance by you, he will come running to handle your every wish and desire. Peek at the menu. No frills here. Classic goodness. Choose a salad, or the delicious burger. Don't feel any need to spend a lot on food (it's actually quite affordable anyway) – but you won't be able to hold back on spending money on a few of those Bloody Mary's.
Make your decision and begin your hours-long lunch. When life is like this – there really is no reason to leave (unless you're supposed to be back at work.) It's like being sucked into a vortex where everyone seems to be so satisfied and as if this is what they do every single day of their lives. God, don't you wish it were so?
But, as all good things do, your meal will come to an end. Stuffed and a little inebriated, you have one trick card to allow you to stay. Get into the pool area. The following options will at this point probably be easier if you've maybe had too many of those Bloodys. Maybe you've chatted up a guest, maybe someone who works there, or maybe you're just prepared to be sneaky. If you choose the latter – be careful; security has recently gotten tight after too many people started choosing this option. But who doesn't like a thrill?
Head back downstairs from where you came and in front of you is a sign to the bungalows, cottages, and pool. Whichever way you chose to get in, use it and open the locked gate. After a quick stroll through what can only be called a botanical garden, the pool will sneak up on you on the right, through the bamboo. Go down the steps. It's small – almost too small. A perfect little oval for doing the perfect little amount of swimming. Men in white will get you what you need; light up an after-meal cigarette; maybe order another drink. Play a quick game of ping-pong with a European (cigarette or drink in the non-dominant hand) before retiring to your chaise. Gently coast in and out of slumber (the alcohol's kicking in.) As the sun disappears behind the hotel you will sigh and know that it's really over. The true end to your mini vacation has come. Chateau, as it has done for so many, will leave you feeling totally rejuvenated but with a great desire to stay.
But there's always tomorrow…
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