20 MENSWEAR RULES BROKEN BY THE EXPERTS

We set out to see if there were any established menswear style rules that style experts would recommend breaking or proudly sporting with panache. This is what they had to say.

1. Rule to Break: Don’t Mix Different Patterns

Via ties.com

“When it comes to breaking the fashion rules men tend to play it safe never risking pushing the boat too far for fear of their unforgiving male counterparts, but things are changing; men are far more open minded to changes in fashion, with the industry welcoming new men’s lines weekly. However it can be hard to stay ahead of the curve and keep things fresh so if you want to breathe new life into your wardrobe then it may be time to start breaking the rules.

Pattern Clashing is a great option as it is quite uncommon on the street being mostly left to the runways and magazines, meaning if you pull it off you’ll definitely turn some heads. Plus with check prints, block stripes, floral and polka-dots all on trend, what better time to get clashing? Follow my tips to make sure you nail it.

Start Small: Start small by simply wearing one of your print blazers with a patterned pocket square or even some patterned socks with those check trousers or my personal favourite – a print shirt with a patterned tie. If you can pull these off then you’re on your way to clashing with success.

Don’t Overdo It: When you decide to introduce a little more pattern remember to always keep a neutral colour as a base. As a rule of thumb don’t mix more than two patterns. A nice patterned blazer with patterned pants and a plain base layer is perfect for this style.

One Rule at a Time: Pattern Clashing when done correctly will make a big statement so try not lose the run of yourself, yes black and navy can go together and trainers can be done with a suit but one rule at a time fellas.

Stay dapper.”

- Deano | Avant-En Gardé | @AvantEnGarde

“I love to mix prints. It may be “too much” but if done the right way, it works. Polka dots with floral or a plaid with a stripe–if they are the right colors the pairing is excellent. I say, ‘do it.’”

- Dan Chizzoniti | Real Men Wear Ties | @DanChiz

2. Rule to Break: Your watch must match your shoes

Along with your shoes, Zinczenko says your watch is the main thing most women look at. So, without even knowing it, you're telling others a lot about you by what's on your wrist. Color is the big story for men's watches now. The key trends are big faces and lots of color. There are more options to choose from, including blue and gold dials (or faces) and colored leather straps. If, for some reason, you own both a red watch and red shoes, don't feel the need to wear them together.

3. Rule to Break: Match Your Belt to Your Shoes

"Alexander McQueen once said, 'You've got to know the rules to break them. That's what I'm here for, to demolish the rules but to keep the tradition.'

We've always been fans of McQueen, and we love his take on rules. It is good to know the basics, what goes with what and how an outfit should look, but it is just as important to throw that out the window from time to time. Rules should be learned and then broken with taste, bent to the point of individual style. There are plenty of these little fashion faux pas that have been acquired with time. Wildly colorful socks for instance, were gawked at when they first became popular, now they are more mainstream in the dapperly dressed than solid black.

We would like to address another "rule" of men's fashion that we think too many men are getting hung up on, when really it looks better broken: matching your belt to your shoes. Don't get me wrong; you shouldn't be wearing brown shoes with a black belt, or vise versa but there is no need to find a belt that hits on the exact same tone of brown, like I have seen so many men do. Grab a belt, grab some shoes, if they are in the same basic color-wheel and compliment each other nicely, then go for it. I have more brown belts than I'd care to admit, and even more brown shoes. I have never spent more than a minute pairing them up. Put on what you like and wear it with confidence, and the next day you may just see a few guys in the office who have fallen suit.

Feel like going even further outside the norm? Go for it! Grab red belt, a blue belt that compliments your outfit, or a neon green one (I have a neon green Diesel belt that is one of my favorites). Once you stop limiting yourself to one belt for one pair of shoes you'll realize these standout belts can up your sartorial game by a long shot. Enjoy your new look!"

- Mike Maroney | Life Tailored | @aLifeTailored

4. Rule to Break: Avoid stripes on stripes

The secret here is to make it clear that you are intentionally stepping over the lines. "By picking up the colour of the shirt in the tie, you're letting it be known that you are deliberately bucking the trend," says Gordon Richardson, design director at Topman. "Don't make it look like an accident."

5. Rule To Break: Never Button the Bottom Button

Via esquire.com

This is one of menswear's most cherished decrees. But stylish men have been shrugging it off since at least the early '60s. Ever heard of The Beatles? More recently this phenomenon showed up in Mad Men, a canonical style guide for contemporary men if ever there was one. Now designers are catching up, sprinkling recent runways with this contentious bit of styling. Approach this one cautiously, and try it out with three-button jackets only, where the higher gorge will help create a clean military look when you fasten the bottom button.

6. Rule to Break: Don’t Wear Shorts With A Blazer

"As spring turns to summer the average temperature inevitably rises. As a result, many men chose to trade in their pants for shorts. A small minority of men swear off shorts altogether, which is something I don't get. Another set of men swear off shorts with a blazer or other odd jacket, which is more understandable and also more polarizing of a debate.

Those who are more conservatively or traditionally minded would scoff at pairing shorts with a blazer. However, those who are either more adventurous, contemporary or perhaps even snarky wouldn't look twice at such a combination. I personally side strongly in the latter camp, despite often gravitating toward a more conservative mindset.

So what makes breaking this rule both attractive and acceptable? There are the arguments for comfort; I doubt anyone would argue that pants are more comfortable than shorts in 90 degree weather. There is also the argument for pushing the 'rules' of men's style. Not to mention pushing the limits of certain dress codes, such as 'cocktail attire.' But lastly, the most emotional and perhaps strongest argument for pairing shorts with a blazer is that it embodies that fun loving spirit that only summer seems to bring out in people better than most other pairings. There is certainly none that say 'business on top, party on bottom' better."

- Justin Jeffers | The Fine Young Gentlemen | @FYGblog

7. Rule to Break: Don’t Wear a Suit Without Socks

Via ties.com

“It may seem counter intuitive, but you don’t always have to wear socks when sporting a suit. In fact, as temperatures rise, ditching socks when you dress up is a stylish way to stay cool. The look pairs well with more casual suits, especially ones worn to warm summer events like outdoor weddings and parties. Breaking this rule isn’t as simple as walking out your front door without dress socks, though. It’s important to remember to care for your feet and your shoes, because let’s face it – your feet will get sweaty under the blazing sun. Gold Bond powder is a sockless suit wearer’s best friend since it helps absorb moisture, preventing your shoes from effectively becoming a sweat sponge. This will not only keep your shoes from smelling ripe after a long day under the sun, but will also help keep your feet feeling comfortable and fresh. A pair of no show, low cut socks work great for this purpose, too. If you do decide to take the powder route, applying a moleskin patch to sensitive areas will limit the pain you experience in the name of fashion. We love stylish looks that are practical too, so it’s no surprise we love ditching our socks and baring our ankles in the name of cool relief and dapper attire.”

- Matthew and Steven | The Sharp Suit | @TheSharpSuit

8. Rule to Break: Work clothes are for work; Play clothes are for play.

Tailored clothes can mix well with casual clothes. Try wearing a sport coat with khakis, or a dress shirt and tie with blue jeans. Pairing a sport coat and jeans speaks volumes about your ability to put clothes together. Zinczenko says this rule is best broken with single-breasted jackets, and suggests keeping the double-breasted suit coat with its matching pants.

9. Rule to Break: A Bag Is For Females

It's a common misconception that most men aren't that comfortable with bags. Unless you're traveling and loaded up with daily essentials – you'd rather not bother with the agro of shopping for one. Women have dozens, some have hundreds and you just don't get the need why you should too, you're a man after all!

10. Rule to Break: Neckwear Needs to be Subtle

Via ties.com

“There are some fashion rules that should remain untouched, wearing socks with sandals for example will forever remain a fashion faux pas, whilst others may have a little leeway. For me it’s the little details that make outfits stand out, and these can range from pocket squares to vibrant sock colours.

You always see these rules about how ties should be a certain length or tied in a certain way to give the best look, and this is where I tend to disagree. The details are meant to amplify and enhance your look rather than making you look like a generic cardboard cutout. Don’t get me wrong, if you’re going for a job interview, the Mad Men look is likely to put you in good stead but it’s always good to show a little personality.

Colour is your best friend, don’t shy away from it. A nice bright bow tie or a floral tie can really enhance your look as well as experimenting with different knot types (e.g Eldredge, Trinity). In the past if I didn’t have a skinny tie to hand, I simply put a normal tie on in reverse with the wide end tucked in neatly into the shirt and it worked a treat.

These days you should just have fun and experiment, try something new and if you’re comfortable with it why not tweak it some more? Wear a wooden bracelet, wear your watch over your shirt cuff or simply start wearing a woven belt instead of a dress belt – the combinations are endless.”

- Anton Dvorakovsky | The Style Division | @StyleDivision

11. Rule to Break: No Pant Break

A hem that hits above the heel sounds about right if you're headed to a boardroom or a Bar Mitzvah. For the other 90% of your life, feel free to relax and roll up your khakis and jeans. An inch to an inch-and-a-half should do the trick. Ankles can be bare, but showing a smidgen of sock — preferably with a pop of color — is a nice touch, too. If you look like you're ready for a 40-year flood or a circus, you've likely gone too far.

12. Rule to Break: Denim on Denim

Doubling down in the denim department is a dangerous road to travel. A slight turn in the wrong direction could land you with an agricultural aesthetic you weren't exactly going for. Can you break the fashion rules by wearing jeans on jeans? Yes. Sync tonalities and patinas — dark with dark and washed with washed — but never match them exactly. In the end, you may just pull this one off.

13. Rule to Break: Wear a Belt With Belt Loops

Via esquire.com

This one's borrowed from bespoke suits, where a lack of belt loops is used to display a perfect custom fit. Here, the look takes on an easy-going rebel style that conveys you're too preoccupied with cool stuff (like the beach or, um, women) to remember your belt. Go crazy with this one now, because it's perfect for laid-back summer dressing.

14. Rule to Break: Short Sleeve Shirts are Passé

"Designers are going CRAZY for the short sleeve shirt, why? I have no idea. You'll see them in GQ and in AskMen's recommendations (even though in years past they have advised against it). It has always been the most abysmal garment for men and still is.

There is a golden rule for short sleeve shirts – If your bicep is muscular enough to fill the aperture of the arm, wear a short sleeve. This will show off the muscle and the work you have put in. If your arms do not fill the aperture, wear a long sleeve shirt with roll sleeves instead – this will add mass around the bicep making you look stronger.

Myself and renowned dating expert for men, Kezia Noble, did research on 'what girls want men to wear' and as part of this ebook we asked women to pick the garment that they absolutely hated the most. We had an awesome list however by far the most hated garment, decided by women? The short sleeve shirt."

- Daniel Johnson | The Rules of Style | @TheRulesOfStyle

15. Rule to Break: The Rule Of Three

Via fashionbeans.com

Another rule I used to stick to avidly. When it comes to things such as colour, pattern mixing and accessorising, my advice to style newbies is to never use more than three.

For example, have no more than three colours at work in your outfit at one time – and one should always be neutral. This helps keep your outfits grounded in the real world whilst still allowing you to experiment.

To a certain extent, I don’t break this rule at all. What I like to do is add a subtle detail that bends, rather than breaks it. For example, if I’m wearing a navy suit with a green gingham shirt and a bold burgundy striped tie (the rule of three for patterns – two patterns to one solid) I then finish the look with a patterned pocket square in navy floral to add another pattern to the mix.

I’d recommend doing it this way to avoid your looks getting too messy. And only ever do it with one style – colour, patterns or accessories – NEVER all at the same time.

16. Rule to Break: Steer Clear of Pleats

Indeed, even we're guilty of helping etch this dress dictum in stone. The real problem, however, isn't with the pleats. It's with the pants themselves. The mass appeal of '90s-era pantaloons (thanks in no small part to MC Hammer and an Italian designer that shall remain nameless), with their wide legs and shapeless silhouette, gave pleats a bad name. Our take: As long as there isn't an army of them and the legs are properly sized, you're on the path to pleated perfection.

17. Rule to Break: Wear Dress Shoes With a Suit

There's a place and time for all rules. Some aren't meant to be broken. But Zinczenko thinks doing things your own way says loads about your sense of individuality, and recommends breaking loose every once in awhile. He suggests untucking your shirt, unbuttoning your button down collar and losing the belt every so often. In general: loosen up. A cotton suit for spring is perfect. Instead of a dress shirt and loafers, pair it with a cool crewneck and a pair of funky trainers for a Friday night out. But don't try this with a dressy wool suit, and don't fool yourself into thinking your gym shoes count as funky trainers.

18. Rule to Break: Tweaking the Details

I used to be of the firm belief that things always had to be a certain way – ties should be a certain length, tie bars should be placed at certain heights and pocket squares should be perfectly creased and folded Mad Men style.

These days? Who cares? Have some fun with it!

I regularly knot my tie so that the tail end is longer than the body to add a little bit of dishevelment to my look. Or why not take inspiration from the Italian style giant Giovanni Agneli and wear you watch over your shirt cuff? I'm not saying follow him exactly but it's that sort of tinkering and tweaking of the details that can lift your look from something out of GQ to something that is truly your own.

19. Rule to Break: Match Socks to Pants

Via esquire.com

A while back men started showing off brightly printed socks with cropped trousers, a dandified affectation that drew major media attention allover the world. This rule breaker takes that style and builds off it, adding a hint of knowing faux naivety that's right in line with the resurgence of dad style. To make this work, look for the frumpiest socks you can find, in colors like black, brown, or even white.

20. Rule to Break: All the Rules. Make Your Own!

"Men must understand the need to have style and make an effort to enhance it. This is often difficult for you college kids that may not have a lot of money or time to worry about it, or quite frankly even care about it. As you evolve into young men, or maybe you're already there, figure out what type of person you are and express that in your clothing. Whether you like it or not, your clothing, hair, shoes, etc., are all going to send a message to everyone you encounter. This will not change for the rest of your life. You might as well try to control that message for accuracy.

Your personal preferences and behaviors can help define your style. For instance, maybe (like me) you hate tying your shoes. I stopped buying shoes with laces about 10 years ago. Its all boots and slip-on dress shoes for me. The only shoes I have with laces are running or basketball shoes. Incidentally, I have the same rule with underwear. I only wear it when I'm at the gym, or running. I never understood how men stuff their boxers into their jeans like a diaper. Boy that looks comfortable!"

- Max | The Rugged Male | @TheRuggedMale