As August comes to an end and September fast approaches the immortal works of Candy Pratts Prices' immortal words in R J Cutler's Vogue documentary The September Issue, "September is the January of fashion" ring true for the publishing industry. With the new season comes a plethora of phonebook-thick fashion magazines all reporting on trends seen on at the Autumn/Winter shows at New York, London, Milan and Paris's fashion weeks.
London has for a while now been hailed as a creative hub: a capital of eclecticism nurturing the likes of Canadian Erdem Moralioğu, Greek Mary Katrantzou and the Greco-Austrian Marios Schwab. The city can also boast the creation of fashion greats such as both Lee McQueen and Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen, Christopher Bailey for Burberry and Vivienne Westwood and Christopher Kane for their respective eponymous labels. Being home to a number of internationally renowned fashion schools, the practise of turning out talent in London shows no sign of slowing.
For 20 years now the British Fashion Council, the board responsible for London Fashion Week and the British Fashion Awards, has been running NEWGEN, the 'new generation' project to support emerging designers. The scheme rewards and financially supports new designers to allow their brand to develop in a clear thinking space, intending to minimise the financial worries which often accompanies a new businesses. Matthew Williamson, Meadham Kirchhoff, Alexander McQueen, Erdem, Christopher Kane and Richard Nicoll are all past recipients of the 'prestigious launch pad'. And it is because of this roll call that every season buyers and journalists flock to see the new recipients' exhibitions.
Jackie Lee
Jackie Lee is one such recipient of this programme. An MA from Central Saint Martins, in 2010 Lee launched her own label, J J.S Lee. The designer already has showrooms London and Paris and has a stockist on Dover Street Market. Her signature is 'chic, minimalist and modernist tailoring' with subtle, clean lines. Her AW '13 collection was inspired by Russian Constructivism creating considered forms and shapes experimenting with monochrome tones and typically feminine pastels. Her designs are not dissimilar to the tailoring and clarity of vision seen at #Jil Sander# and frequent fan of the German house Tilda Swinton is said to be the embodiment of the spirit of Lee's label.
Paula Gerbase
Another alumnus of Central Saint Martins and fellow recipient of the NEWGEN award is Paula Gerbase, creator of the label 1205. Like Lee, Gerbase's clothes show intensely modern forms with a divulgence into differing textures and a keen mastery of tailoring indicative of her 5 year stint as Head Designer at Saville Row's #Kilgour#. What is perhaps most striking about her collection is that her androgynous pieces appear to show no bias of gender; in her A/W '13 lookbook pieces are interchangeable between the male and female models.
Palmer/Harding
#Palmer/Harding# creates clothes for intelligent and inspiring women. A recent look book shows a series of models in a bright minimalistic setting. Gliding along a white catwalk in predatory heels the models show off the pair's fascination with white shirts. Each outfit displays a new take on the idea of the wardrobe staple: "trying to update a classic seems so clichéd but it's something that has been neglected." The duo's close attention to detail is key to the success of their creations. With using cotton that "feels like silk" thanks to a sponsorship from Cotton USA and Supima the shirts exude simple elegance and wearability. Fluidity, volume and even a sharp stiffness can be seen all at once in some of the looks.
Jessica Read
Contrasting completely with the minimalism of the designers discussed so far is the work of London resident, the 21 knitwear designer Jessica Read. A recent graduate of the University of West London, she believes that women should have fun with their clothing and her graduate collection was based 'on the concept of Amish teenagers visiting Las Vegas on their Rumspringa; a traditional rite of passage within the Amish community, where teenagers leaver the confines of their community and explore the sins of the outer world' the result is an assault of acid brights, soft pompoms adorning cool white shift dresses and colour blocking used at times obviously and at others, indiscreetly.
Amelia Cross
And finally just beginning her career is Amelia Cross, an aspiring designer due to start her studies at the London College of Fashion this September. Speaking exclusively to FashionBi the 18 year old explains her ambitions: "I want to create well-cut clothes that fit the human body the best way possible." Studying in London has been a long-time dream of hers: "What's great about London is that there's so much contrast between people, which reflects in the fashion world." She cites Alexander McQueen as a kindred spirit for his tailoring past and like the fashion icon detached herself from fashion trends altogether, "I set my own trends. For inspiration I simply look around. You can find inspiration from anything from a train journey to work to the way your food is presented at dinner." When asked about her proudest achievements in her career she mentions her Textiles A level piece: "I chose the topic 'Sculptural Pieces' and looked at metal and clockwork sculptures based on the Industrial Revolution. We had 15 hours to make a garment and I made a dress to look like a screw using dark room printed photography." The design, modelled by her younger sister shows an intricacy and attention to detail that belies her young age. "I would love to extend that project into a collection and have it shown at LFW." What is clear that with her ambition and sharp talent Ms Cross, like the fashion graduates before her, is certainly one to watch.
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