In His Words: How Thomas Tillman Brings Old School Tailoring To Millennial Influencers

Thomas Tillman isn't a relic of the past. He's found a way to mix his upbringing in Philadelphia with some serious fashion and tailoring experience to create big style moments in the form of fine menswear. There's a misconception that fine menswear is boring suits with no flair. Millennials like a tapered slim fit, which isn't always customary in tailoring, or in fine menswear. But Tillman's outlook on the industry and where it's going is like a breath of fresh air. With scissors not nearly as sharp as his wit and insight, Tillman's vision extends way beyond his humble upbringing.

I met Thomas many years ago when I was working in fashion PR. Thomas Tillman Bespoke wasn't a new brand - though the name was. The designer had been working as a tailor and custom clothier in Philadelphia. He and two other local designers were putting on a fashion show and I was tasked with aiding in production and promotion. Living, designing, and moving in his 50s, nothing was lost on Thomas, including the new advances in fashion. He's a rarity in the industry that's as timeless as his technique. And let's be honest, fine menswear never goes out of style. Thomas and I finally had the opportunity - 10 years later, to discuss all of his passions, and the industry as a whole and how he came to be known as Philadelphia's menswear and tailoring czar.

Is there a history in Philadelphia of tailoring and fine menswear? What does it look like, what does it feel like?

There is a rich history of tailoring and fine menswear in Philadelphia. Sadly, those days are almost gone. Most of the old tailors are dying off. I'm happy to say that I was in company with many of them. I mean, these guys shared collectively well over 50 to 70 years of tailoring knowledge with me. I tried to get as much as I could over the 15 years of my apprenticeship. I apprenticed at one of the last and oldest custom tailoring houses in the city of Philadelphia called Lettieri Brothers. They do full custom as well as cut make and trim at their establishment. A lot of places back then were manufactures and small tailoring houses. Some of the manufacture establishments were Botany 500, Thorngate, D’Alonzo, Modern Coat, K & D, and H. Freeman. These were some of the places where they created and produced stock garments. At that time, around 50 years ago, there were about 35,000 machine operators, bushelmen, and tailors that worked in these facilities. In conclusion, as I said before, those days are long gone. I'm very happy to say that I was able to rub shoulders and be educated by these history makers. I will make sure their legacy of Custom Tailoring lives on.

What did you know of menswear when you were a child. Was tailoring, dressing, or fashion always a part of your life…upbringing?

I get a lot of my love and eye for menswear and fashion from the old-timers. Both of my grandfathers were always dapper in their dress and grooming. My great-grandmother was a tailor and my mother knew how to crochet and knit. My mother was also a master at doing alterations. She altered my uncle and grandfather's clothes. My mom was single when she raised me and my two sisters. We stayed fly. She always made sure we were dressed well. (She has pictures to prove it!) I remember when she would shop at places like 'Shirley World' and 'York's for our clothing, in Philadelphia . I'll forever appreciate what she did for us. As I started to get old enough to dress myself, I can remember picking up GQ magazines and studying them. Also, I was into Turner movie classics. The clothing that the actors wore in the movies were beautiful and timeless.

There are some that say that fashion is a young person’s game. What do you say to that? What are your career goals at this age and time in your life?

You know what, I agree that fashion is young person's game. Custom Tailoring, though, really depends on your sartorial maturity. Fashion is fleeting. In a time span of four months you can be in or out the door. However, a custom tailored garment could be handed down through generations after generations. My team and I can craft up a suit for you today and I can assure you that you'll have that same suit for at least three decades with proper care. This could allow you to hand this same suit down to your son. This is the beauty and the investment. Our catch phrase at Thomas Tillman Bespoke is, 'we’re custom not customary'. With regards to the influx of different stores and companies that carry made-to-measure and custom clothing, it is imperative to look at their experience and depth of their knowledge. Many people today just take measurements and are just salesmen. There are some people like myself who can actually make garments. It's levels to the menswear world and wherever you choose to have your garments made depends on what level you're on so to speak. In this field, its important to never stop learning everything you can learn about everything involving what you do. There is no point of being stuck in a box. Learn the business processes, learn the technical processes, learn the creative processes, learn everything. Learn something knew everyday.

In regards to the remainder of my career, currently I am in the beginning stages of designing leather shoes for men and I am really enjoying this venture. In the near future, I want to get into 'ready to wear' clothing for men and women. I also want to have an online store so that people all over the world can order my garments. I would also like to open a store here in Philly and one in NY. So, yes, there is a lot that I still want to accomplish.

With advancements from Virgil (at Louis Vuitton), and Olivier (at Balmain) are you optimistic about the potential growth in opportunity for black designers?

Yes, I think there is a lot of potential when it comes to Black designers today. Those guys are killing it. I think it should be even more opportunities given. When you think about huge names like Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger, I would love to see when the people will allow a black designer to have the same prestige and respect as the aforementioned.

I like to look at a lot of the black bespoke tailors out in the mix today. I always enjoyed Ozwald Boateng, Andrew Ramroop and Charlie Allen. These gentlemen are at the pinnacle and zenith of their craft. They're very good at what they do and I enjoy their work and follow their careers. It is not easy doing what they do.

Is fashion, specifically menswear – racist? How does a black man such as yourself (not in their 20s) navigate this industry? With all of the many reason why NOT to do this – what makes you continue to pick up the needle and thread?

Quite frankly racism does exist in fashion and tailoring. The problem is systemic because it touches so many aspects of our lives. Racism is at an all time high in our society today. However, we are all humans and talent is talent regardless of a person's skin color. Skill, talent, and craftsmanship trump the irrational talk of individuals who promote the idea of racism. What if everyone could not see for an entire year and depended on one another? Racism would be a thing of the past, “wishful thinking.”

To learn more about Thomas Tillman and his incredible brand, visit: www.thomastillmanbespoke.com