In Search Of Momposino Cheese
In certain occasions, I like to go to brunch with my family to this recognized restaurant in Bogotá. One of the best things in their menu is the so called “Queso Momposino”. It was just a couple of days away from undertaking my trip to Santa Cruz de Mompox. I found myself wondering something I thought would be pretty obvious: do they really sell the cheese in Mompox?
My trip began in the bus terminal in Bogotá, where I took a bus to Barranquilla. This is where I encounter my first mistake: I dint bring a blanket. The driver had the air conditioner on full blast, and you’d definitely get cold after a twenty-hour ride. I arrived at Barranquilla, also known as “la arenosa”. I was going to spend the night here before my next stop, and I had planned to camp that night. Second mistake. I spend the night in the beaches of Puerto Colombia, I had arepa de huevo as mandatory when you go to the costs, and I spend some time in the sea. Then things got complicated when it was time for me to find a camping spot. Little did I know, there are NO camping places in Barranquilla. I ended up sleeping in the woods, hiding in the weeds. That has been without a doubt the worst night of my life. I don’t know how long I stayed there in middle of mosquito bites, the infernal heat, and overall the anxiety of been there, I got the heck out of there at sunrise.
When I arrived at bus terminal, by some miracle I found some shower service of just $1. When I was clean, I could finally laugh at the first night of my adventure. It was already so promising. From Barranquilla I took another bus to Magangué (if you are ever here, get some of the local ice creams, they are so good, and probably the only cold thing you will find in days). But, for me to be able to arrive there, I had to take two different buses which the driver failed to mention. I ended up waiting for my second bus in the middle of nowhere feeling as hot as the center of the earth. In the second one my journey continued, and I could sense I was getting closer to my destination: the vegetation was changing as well as the architecture of the small towns we passed by. At around 3:50 on the afternoon of my second day, I reached Magangué… Oh, but don’t you worry, I still had a long way to go before reaching Mompox. I got in to a motorcycle which where the “cabs” so I could get to the dock and catch the last ferry programed for 4:00. As you can imagine by this point of the story, I did not get there on time. But the motorcycle ride mext to the Magdalena river was one of much incredible moments I still had ahead of me. So, I waited sitting next to the river, with a beer in my hand – with so many mosquito bites I didn’t even care anymore – for the “Johnson”. This is how the locals called the motorized canoes. Even though I couldn’t make it to the ferry, the canoe trip accompanied by the sunset and one of the most incredible landscapes of my country, made it all worth it. I reached the island, where a two hour cab ride awaited me, and finally, I arrived.
My first impression of Santa Cruz de Mompox is the impression of its stillness in time. The streets are filled with history reflected in their colonial architecture. It’s a small place, where people are filled with happiness and tranquility. This I could confirm first hand since I was hosted by a local family. When I first arrived, I took a night walk and had dinner in the main plaza, and started my search for a camping site. I kept walking around the streets until I reached the cemetery, and to the right I found a man sitting in the entrance of his house. We started chatting, and when I had the courage I asked him if I there was any chance I could crash my tent in his backyard. There is something I love from Colombians, especially the ones who don’t live in big cities, they still trust. He agreed and got to meet his beautiful family as well. The next day, I woke up and as I was walking around I could confirm how wonderful the town was in daylight. I visited bakeries where the main attraction was the freshly prepared oatmeal, fresh fruit juice in the streets, small parks, churches, abandoned houses, and so many other magical corners of the town. Around mid-day, I lit a fireplace, made myself and made some food. I swam in the water of the Magdalena river. And ended my day in a local pub drinking beer, as I watched the people walk by. I felt so much peace in that moment, I could never forget it.
The last day of my trip in this small piece of paradise had come. I said goodbye to its streets and took a bus that would take me back to Bogotá. That’s right, there is a one way bus Bogotá-Mompox, which I literally discovered the last day – but lets face it, my story wouldn’t have been as much fun that way.
So, I didn’t find the “Queso Momposino”, but I found the best bakeries, fresh street food, I understood the pleasure of having a beer in the heat of the cost, and fell in love with the people and the historical streets. I got to enjoy one of the most beautiful Colombian landscapes and I definitely through trial and error to travel through my country.
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