Why Aren't We Talking About This? Coco Chanel: No5, LBD, Nazi Spy
Known for her perfumes, suits, and coining the term “little black dress,” Coco Chanel is infinitely associated with class and style. For over 100 years, the Chanel fashion house has been creating timeless pieces. Coco Chanel’s brand lives on and is revered and supported by celebrities, such as the current face of Chanel, actress Margot Robbie, as well as Beyoncé Knowles, Blake Lively, Cara Delevingne, Justin Timberlake, Janelle Monáe, Rhianna, Kristen Stewart, Charlize Theron, and many, many more. Chanel has become respected as one of the greatest fashion brands and Chanel herself, born Gabrielle Chanel, a fashion legend.
In an age where the public is beginning to find their voice, we don’t have time for people like Coco Chanel. We can no longer support “that’s how it was at that time” or “they didn’t know better then.” Coco Chanel has no excuse for supporting a regime that is currently estimated to have murdered close to 20 million people.
Coco Chanel grew up in rural France and began making a name for herself in Moulins in the early 1900s. There is much I could write about her personal life and fashion industry, but that is far from the point. It doesn’t matter what she suffered or what she created. What matters is she was a Nazi, and it is not being discussed.
Chanel’s story, the one that matters right now, begins when Germany took over France in 1940 during World War II. Chanel began a relationship with Baron Hans Günther von Dincklage, a German officer. Chanel’s nephew, whom she raised after the death of her sister, André Palasse, was captured in France and sent to a Prisoner of War camp in Germany. Using her connections with Nazi officers, Chanel initiated Palasse’s release on the condition that she would serve Berlin. In 1941, Chanel became Agent F-7124, also known as Westminster. Her service was the work of a spy. She traveled to Spain to obtain information from British diplomat, Brian Wallace. Shortly after, another mission sent her to Britain’s former prime minister, Winston Churchill, to give him news that German officers were seeking to end the war. Chanel’s friend, Lombardi, whom she had also released from prison, was to give her message to Churchill himself. Rather, he claimed Chanel to be a German spy. Despite the fact that Chanel was questioned in France, she managed to flee to Switzerland. Although she attended court after the war ended, she denied involvement with the German officers other than having her nephew released. She was dismissed with no charges, continued her relationship with Dincklage, and returned to a life of fashion.
Chanel’s story is overlooked. Hal Vaughan, author of 2011’s Sleeping with the Enemy, a story detailing the life of Chanel, says himself he does not understand why the story does not get more attention. In a 2011 interview with The New Yorker he was asked about why he does not believe Chanel’s past has gotten more traction. He responds with “I have no idea. I can’t figure it out. Either people didn’t want to know or chose not to deal with it.”
Well, it’s 2020, and in 2020 we deal with things.
Note from the author: I am not a writer nor an investigator, but I wanted to write a small investigative piece after my brief research of Coco Chanel. I encourage anyone who wants to delve more into the story to read Vaughan’s Sleeping with the Enemy. Sources used are posted below.
Sources:
“21 It-Girls Who Rule the Front Row at Chanel.” Vogue, 3 March 2020,
https://www.vogue.com/article/chanel-front-row-celebrities-kristen-stewart-cara-
delevingne.
Arana, Maria. “‘Sleeping with the Enemy’ by Hal Vaughan.” Washington Post, 19 August 2011, https://www.washingtonpost.com/entertainment/books/sleeping-with-the-
enemy-by-hal-vaughan/2011/08/16/gIQAisAeQJ_story.html.
“Celebrities Who Wear Chanel.” Ranker, 14 June 2019, https://www.ranker.com/list/celebrities-who-wear-chanel/reference.
Eschner, Kat. “Why Coco Chanel Created the Little Black Dress.” SmithsonianMag.com, 29 September 2017, https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/why-coco-
Chanel-Created-Lbd-180965024.
McAuley, James. “The Exchange: Coco Chanel and the Nazi Party.” The New Yorker, 5 September 2011, https://www.newyorker.com/books/page-turner/the-exchange-coco-chanel-and-the-nazi-party.
McDowell, Colin. “Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel (1883-1971).” Business of Fashion, 27 November 2015, https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/education/gabrielle-
coco-chanel-1883-1971.
Ott, Tim. “Coco Chanel’s Secret Life as a Nazi Agent.” 15 June 2020,
https://www.biography.com/news/coco-chanel-nazi-agent.
Picardie, Justine.”The Secret Life of Coco Chanel.” 5 September 2010,
http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG7975778/The-secret-life-of-Coco-Chanel.html.
United States Holocaust Memorial Museum, Washington, DC. “Documenting Numbers of Victims of the Holocaust and Nazi Persecution.” Holocaust Encylopedia, 4 February 2019, https://encyclopedia.ushmm.org/content/en/article/documenting-
numbers-of-victims-of-the-holocaust-and-nazi-persecution.
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