These Black Makeup Artists Shared With Us Their Tricks Of The Trade And What They Wish The Industry Did Better

“It’s important that the topic of inclusivity is not rated as a trend for profitability or to increase revenues.”

BuzzFeed / Via Kingsley Nebech for BuzzFeed News

So the British high street has come a long way in terms of offerings for black beauty enthusiasts. From diverse ranges to more inclusive campaigns, a greater push for diversity means that we no longer have to be out here looking...a mess.

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BuzzFeed News spoke to 11 beauty insiders and makeup artists to find out their secrets and what they think the industry needs to do better.

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Joy Adenuga

Courtesy of Joy Adenuga / Via @joyadenuga, mcmlondon / Via @mcmlondon

Beauty tip: To glow from within, after applying a layer of foundation, I recommend mixing a gold illuminator with the leftover foundation and applying it to the highest points of your face. I love Becca Shimmering Skin Perfector liquid for this. The finish is so beautiful.

Advice to the industry: We all need mentors for guidance, but get this — your mentor does not have to be in the same industry as you are. With this thinking you’ll be more receptive to guidance and advice given by individuals in different professions.

Letitia Sophia

Courtesy of Letitia Sophia / Via @lletitia, Courtesy of Letitia Sophia

Beauty tip: I always have the B by Superdrug brush cleanser with me everywhere I go. Whether I need to quickly dry-clean my brushes on the go or I’m clumsy and spill some makeup on my clothes, a spray of this brush cleaner and it’s gone. Great product.

Advice to the industry: It’s becoming difficult for upcoming and established professional makeup artists to be paid rates that reflect their talent and job role as there are so many artists willing to work for free or extremely low rates, which brands can take advantage of. There isn’t anything wrong with working for free and gaining experience as I have done plenty of that, however there should be a time where you’re able to charge a rate you’re worth and not feel that you may lose the work in the process. In doing this, it supports not only yourself and career but also protects the makeup artist industry/community as a whole.

Nikita Baffour

Courtesy of Nikita Baffour / Via @nikitabaffour, Amanda Akokhia / Via http://@amanda.akokhia.photo

Beauty tip: BROWS! On clients, I like to use a gel pomade or a brow pencil. I particularly love the Benefit Cosmetics Precisely My Brow pencil in number 5. My tip would be to outline the brows first, before filling it in, in order to avoid over-filling and to keep the brow as natural as possible. I then apply light hairlike strokes to the beginning of the brow. To finish, use a clear brow gel to set it all in place.

Advice to the industry: Representation. We need to stop relying on the “bigger brands” to become inclusive, we need to showcase deeper skin tones models and clients on our pages, especially as makeup artists ourselves. People want to be able to relate to what they see on your page and draw inspiration from people who look like them, and therefore I believe that it’s very important and our responsibility to showcase diversity in complexions on our platforms, instead of furthering the biased narratives in place. We have a big role and we have to play our part, together we can break down the stereotypes of the “ideal” beauty standards.

Mahina Makeup

Courtesy of Mahina Makeup / Via Instagram: @mahinamakeup

Beauty tip: One tip I have to brighten up your eyeshadow is to put a light matte eyeshadow in your inner corner, this literally changes your whole beat.

Advice to the industry: I would encourage emerging makeup artists to create relationships that are organic and not based on numbers.

Dee Beauté

Courtesy of Dee Beauté / Via @deebeautebydolly, Courtesy of Dee Beauté

Beauty tip: A product I swear by is the BeautyBlender — Beauty Blender Sponge. I’ve been using these for about six years now and I haven’t looked back ever since. It has the perfect texture ever. It’s soft, sturdy, squidgy, smooth, long-lasting, and most importantly doesn’t soak up your products. It’s a bit pricey but, I wouldn’t be without it in my kit.

Advice to the industry: I definitely feel like there is more room for improvement when it comes to supporting one another. We have been blessed with this amazing gift so, share when you can, uplift when you can and spread good words always. Never compare your talents to anyone else’s because the beauty of this industry is that although it may seem like we all produce the “same work” we are beautifully distinctive.

Rasheeda OTS Beauty

Courtesy of Rasheeda OTS / Via Instagram: @ots_beauty, jotphotography / Via Instagram: @jotphotography

Beauty tip: For people with oily skin, I recommend lightly apply setting powder to your face before foundation. It makes a huge difference.

Advice to the industry: I’ve been blessed working in the beauty industry, to have built a clientele based on my skills and not on the amount of likes or followers I have. Unfortunately, for upcoming artists and creatives, it’s not so easy, as big brands overlook talented artists because they don’t have a certain amount of followers or likes, and it’s even less likely that black creatives get the recognition they deserve. For all upcoming creatives, do not get discouraged, keep grinding, keep being creative, because your time will come.

Antonia Omisesan

Courtesy of Antonia Omisesan / Via Instagram: @tonikemi

Beauty tip: One tip I always give my clients when it comes to makeup is that there are no rules. Just because a product says it’s an eyeshadow, don’t rule out other uses for it. One of my favourite eyeshadows that I use for my clients is actually a highlighter and one of my favourite bronzers for my deeper-toned clients, is actually an eyeshadow. I love that I can create my own rules.

Advice to the industry: It’s encouraging to see that many brands are embracing diversity and are making genuine efforts to launch products that better reflect the skin tones seen in the UK, but I do think better product development is needed when creating cosmetics, especially complexion products for deeper skin tones. Too often I invest in products and the shade range is not diverse enough or the undertones are off for the women of colour that make up the majority of my clientele. Not enough money is spent finding out the complexities and intricacies of deeper skin in order for chemists to create product that complements it. The buying power of women of colour in the UK has increased over the last couple of decades, we have more disposable income, and we want to spend it on beauty products, so the incentive is there for companies to invest more in the early stages of creating a product.

Jennifer Olaleye

Courtesy of Jennifer Olaleye / Via Instagram: @jenniferolaleye

Beauty tip: I absolutely love the H&M Mattifying Primer. It’s great for oily skin. Just before your full face of makeup, apply to your oily areas and set with any translucent powder of your choice. It works like a charm.

Advice to the industry: Always try and support your fellow MUA. Don’t be afraid to show some love because there’s a client out there for every makeup artist.

Kemi Imevbore Uwaga

Courtesy of Kemi King / Via Instagram: @kemikingsmakeup

Beauty tip: As cliché as it sounds, amazing makeup really does start with a great skin and skincare. My skin has seen a huge improvement and transformation since the introduction of certain key ingredients into my routine. Mainly acids — Humectants like hyaluronic acids, gentle chemical exfoliators like Lactic acid and Mandelic acid, Vitamin C and of course, a good SPF.

One of my holy grail skincare product is Sunday Riley Good Genes — the lactic acid version. A serum designed to refine skin texture and perk up dull skin, plump up lines and wrinkles, and brighten the complexion. Use the night before an important event and wake up to a glowing and refined skin, all ready for makeup.

Advice to the industry: The topic of inclusivity within the beauty industry is still rife, however more brands are now taking progressive steps towards diversity in the development of new beauty products such as foundations and concealers. I think it’s important that the topic of inclusivity is not rated as a trend for profitability or to increase revenues and the beauty brands are genuinely invested in a lifelong commitment to include EVERYONE.

Zainab Hassan

Courtesy of Zainab Hassan / Via Instagram: @zainabhassanxo, Sean Whitty / Via Instagram: @seanwhitty

Beauty tip: Lip gloss saves lives! I live for a dripping glossy lip and a dab of gloss on your cheekbones and even eyelids — makes for the most divine highlighter.

Advice to the industry: Let’s stop indirectly pushing Eurocentric beauty ideals as the standard. Makeup should be freeing and fun not another way to mess with our minds. Let’s celebrate everyone!

Zakiyah Shani

Courtesy of Zakiyah Shani / Via Instagram: @zakiyahshani

Beauty tip: I am currently obsessed with orange blush, specifically Nip + Fab’s Sunset from their dark contour palette. It blends beautifully on deep skin tones and can double as a bronzing shade. I love using it to accentuate or create the appearance of high cheekbones.

Advice to the industry: I believe that the industry needs to be reflective of the diversity of our world and respect what each and every one of us brings to the table. As a young black makeup artist, it is very uplifting to be able to draw inspiration and have the support of my peers within the black makeup community. Every day I see so much light and encouragement amongst black MUAs and creatives who are either up and coming, established, or pioneers in their chosen field.