1. On the ocean fixing all of life's problems...
2. ...and on its magical healing powers:
3. On what to do when you see a shark:
4. On learning where to surf:
5. On advice for beginners:
6. On getting over the fear after a bad experience:
7. On what it feels like to catch your first wave...
8. ...and your first pop-up:
9. On peeing in your wetsuit to warm up:
10. On surfing in general:
And finally, on why you should watch the Season 2 premiere of Animal Kingdom:
😉
All photos by Aubree Lennon for BuzzFeed © 2017
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