Did Free People Steal An Independent Artist’s Design?

Urban Outfitters, which owns Free People, has a reputation for borrowing ideas from indie designers for mass-produced products.

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Did Free People Steal An Independent Artis...
Amy Odell

Left, Kao’s work; right, a mason jar currently for sale in Free People stores.

In 2009, artist Stephanie Kao started working with a friend and professional ceramicist on a line of porcelain pieces that included vases and mugs. He crafted the pieces, and she hand-painted each of them, ultimately copyrighting some of the designs. They called the pieces the “lace and garland” collection, and sold the items at small stores, art galleries, and craft fairs around Philadelphia, where they lived at the time and where Urban Outfitters is based.

In 2010, Kao and her friend stopped producing the line when she moved to New York and he moved to L.A. But over the weekend, her friend found something that looked suspiciously like her artwork enveloping a mason jar being sold at Free People.

Kao says “it’s blatantly obvious” that she was ripped off by Free People, which is owned by Urban Outfitters, whose headquarters are located across from one of the shops selling the line. “At the time when I was producing these things, we sold a lot on Etsy as well, and I would check out the scene, what was going on, and I didn’t see any designs like this,” she said.

Urban Outfitters has a reputation for borrowing ideas from independent artists without consulting them. In 2010, jewelry maker Lillian Crowe accused Urban of copying her skeleton-inspired designs. The Brooklyn Paper reported her allegations, and quoted a source familiar with the company’s dealings who suggested they ask artists they work with if they’ve taken their idea from someone else because, “They know they have this reputation [of knocking people off], and are trying to [dispel it].” Last year, Urban was also accused of knocking off work by Stevie Koerner, who made a living selling state-shaped pendants with heart-shaped cutouts on Etsy. Just this month Urban Outfitters stopped selling a necklace after a jewelry designer accused the brand on Twitter of borrowing the idea from her line.

A rep for Free People has not responded to BuzzFeed Shift’s request for comment Monday* regarding Kao’s designs. Kao believes there’s nothing legally she can do about it, since the company changed the design enough to be outside the realm of copyright protection. She plans to work on another line of ceramic pieces in the near future.

“Part of me felt sort of defeated when I got sent that picture,” she said. “All I can do is take this as a motivation for my next line and do something completely new and different.”

Kao currently works as a graphic designer in New York and does freelance art projects on the side.

*Update: A spokesperson for Free People said the lanterns are a product from another vendor who sells on Etsy, whose been a member of the site since October of 2011.

This yellow mason jar is currently sold out on Free People’s website.

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    13 Responses So Far

    • brianae thinks Did Free People Steal An Independent ... is WTF & Fail  about 5 months ago
    • ImSorryYoureWrong 5 months ago

      the argument that folks are putting forth about the designs pulling from henna style aesthetics is ridiculous and absurd, and it s obviously not being put forth by artists or folks with any clue about the art world. For example, world famous composer Stravinsky ripped multiple thematic ideas from other composers or from russian folk melodies and then implemented them into his own work (in fact if you go back through classical music, you’ll find many instances of many composers plucking melody ideas from other places for their own compositions. perhaps as an aside we’ve just defined the earliest form of “sampling”).  That said - it is rather striking that a large organization like urban approached someone wanting to mass produce the artist’s wares, and magically have almost exact replicas for sale when their first attempt didnt work out. Perhaps the design has been altered enough to not be considered plagiarism, but if you cannot recognize the similarity in concept (hand painted artwork on kitchen ware item), and regardless of its ultimate purpose (“candle holder” or “mug”), please please please elaborate on your current surroundings because I’m not convinced your head isnt up your ass.  Regardless, I dont intend this to take away from the other artist’s abilities, creativity, or output whatsoever, but if we look at the events on a time table, it is not a stretch of the imagination to entertain the possibility that the artistic idea behind the pieces being sold could have somehow been born from Stephanie Kao’s originals.  And to my dear desk jockey’s, please withhold your lack of sympathy for the plights, trials, and tribulations of those who are trying to make a living through their creative output - its a fucking hard world out there and making a living at it via artistic means without corporate dollars funding the operation and marketing it all to the masses is not a walk in the park by any means.

    • Cool Muhl 5 months ago

      I guess none of the previous commenters have ever had anything stolen from them before. Perhaps if you poured your heart and soul into a work of art and turned around a couple months later to see it ripped off by a major corporation, you would understand how crappy it feels. the URBN co. needs to back off. this is not the first or last time they will steal an indie-artists work. As a philly native, and fellow designer, i know for a fact that they send their people into the local boutiques to “get inspired”. i.e. design scouts steal ideas, change them 10%, then mark them up to ridiculous prices (especially free people), and call them their own original work. As an indie artist, there is nothing you can do. you are one person vs a multi-million dollar corporation.
      yea yea, everyone is inspired by something, someplace, or time, or style or whatever. but to say these two designs are not identical is dumb, and to say Kao is ripping henna is even dumber. I feel for her and think this article needed to be aired to spread the word on how stuff like this is constantly happening within the URBN co. The worst part about it all is that they are screwing the indie art that made them into who they are. I just hope one day they can afford to pay real designers who will make great works of art for them instead of sending people out to steal ideas.

      • Elizabeth Bentley 5 months ago

        I think you’re getting a bit too conspiracy theory here. Why would a company make up working with a small business and put it on the internet? If you think that’s why happened, why not email LIT Decor? It is highly, highly unlikely that any company would publicly say that they worked with someone if they not only did not work with them but also ripped them off.

      • Cool Muhl 5 months ago

        you’re right. i’m a total paranoid conspiracy theorist who never had this EXACT SAME THING happen to me.

      • Elizabeth Bentley 5 months ago

        My comment wasn’t meant to be personally insulting, and I’m sorry that you were ripped off by a big company- that must have been horrible. It is just very unlikely that FP would lie in a public forum about who they worked with, especially if they did replicate the product.

    • janice!   Did Free People Steal An Independent ... and thinks it’s Ew, WTF & Fail  about 5 months ago
    • chriz74 5 months ago

      Who cares

    • MarHar   Did Free People Steal An Independent ...  about 5 months ago
    • bk 5 months ago

      Yeah, that’s pretty much the same design. But there are two major differences: 1) Free People didn’t hand make that mason jar, and 2) the knockoff design is sloppy. Sorry, but that’s just the truth.

    • Happysquid   Did Free People Steal An Independent ... and thinks it’s Ew  about 5 months ago
    • handmadelife 5 months ago

      As an independent designer / maker it can be very difficult to make a living. At the time these objects were being made, the studio that Stephanie Kao collaborated with was approached by a buyer from Anthropologie at a local crafts market where they discussed the possibility of working together. After further discussion between Stephanie and the studio, it was decided that these TRULY HANDMADE objects could not be produced cheap enough to sell on a wholesale level. Suffice it to say the relationship with Anthro fizzled and it was left up in the air as to whether the corporate giant and these small independent makers would collaborate in the future.   While there are certainly differences between these two objects, it is a bit absurd to say that they are “totally different,” and seems quite apparent that this may be more than coincidence!

      • Elizabeth Bentley 5 months ago

        These weren’t even designed by the company, though. They were designed by an Etsy seller and are being sold at Free People. If anything, the fault would like with the Etsy seller that Free People is carrying, but even that is a stretch in this case, as the items are quite different.

      • handmadelife 5 months ago

        That is a valid point and certainly must be taken into consideration. However it is still very important to continually raise awareness of the fact that this sort of thing happens all the time, and that there is virtually no recourse for artists and designers whose ideas and designs are used without there consent.
        Even if the artist/designer has the foresight and finances to copyright protect their idea/design, it is still nearly impossible if someone alters this design in even the slightest way.
        While these certainly are different objects, one being hand painted porcelain, and the other glass, I challenge you to find something else Handmade in the USA in the last few years that is as similar to Stephanie’s design

      • Nevernude 5 months ago

        HOW on earth can an artist claim ownership of a design Indians have used since the dawn of time? Im actually offended that this woman is crying “Big Bad Corporation” when she herself borrowed the design from Hindu culture.

      • Cool Muhl 5 months ago

        An artist can claim ownership to any original work of art. Paul Signac would not go around saying Van Gogh stole his style b/c they both painted tiny dots. Artists do not go around saying so & so stole my design b/c it’s a similar style. They announce it to the world when it is a BLATANT RIP off of the original work. Free People saw Kao’s design, tried to work with her, realized it wouldn’t work, and then went to another artist who paints on jars instead of ceramic and asked them to do the same thing. The fact of the matter is free people stole her work. and that is wrong. she didn’t steal from indian culture. she made it herself. with her own brain and hands. guess you have to be an artist to understand that.

    • leahj thinks Did Free People Steal An Independent ... is Fail  about 5 months ago
    • Gent thinks Did Free People Steal An Independent ... is WTF  about 5 months ago
    • Soo Jung thinks Did Free People Steal An Independent ... is OMG  about 5 months ago
    • AWHK 5 months ago

      Urban Inc. has blatantly stolen from artists for years and usually gets away with it. It seems Urban Inc. chose China as a role model. I’m glad BuzzFeed covered this story for Stephanie Kao and I hope more people see this article. Culture should be defined by its people, not by big business.

    • CBURNZ 5 months ago

      It’s sad that such a big company should continue to steal designs eventhough they have the money to buy them.

    • dennyc2 5 months ago

      This is a really, really dumb article.

    • PsychedelicSoulPizza thinks Did Free People Steal An Independent ... is WTF, LOL & Fail  about 5 months ago
    • agh thinks Independent Artist Accuses Free Peopl... is OMG  about 5 months ago
    • SatelliteJane 5 months ago

      I’m pretty sure I doodled that design when I was in a boring meeting once

    • Floobity thinks Independent Artist Accuses Free Peopl... is Fail  about 5 months ago
    • Asha 5 months ago

      The real crime is charging $28 for a mason jar …

    • taelors 5 months ago

      Scallops are a really big trend right now. Urban Outfitters is just tuned into what’s up.

    • esperanzarubiot 5 months ago

      I have a sugar bowl in my house that has similar designs, It’s been a part of our home decor for at least 15 years.

    • Floobity 5 months ago

      And they can all be accused of stealing the design from henna body art.

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